Mastering Sebastian Professional Hair Cutting Techniques

Sebastian was the first brand to really start the revolution of thinking outside the box and breaking the rules! And that means developing our own hair cutting techniques to help us achieve shapes that always bring out the client’s features.

Our method is extremely complex and takes many years to master, so here are a few of our established hair cutting techniques, using the blade or the scissors, to get you started. These techniques are essential if you want to create edgy yet soft looks like a choppy bob, a shag haircut or pixie cut.

BLADING TECHNIQUES

When it comes to the tools to use you might wonder which is the best one, but there is no definitive set of circumstances where you would pick up the blade instead of the scissors. It all depends on what finish you are aiming for on your haircut.

At Sebastian we like to use the blade to create perfectly imperfect shapes, we love soft and flowing movement that makes the haircut beautifully meld with the client’s head; we also like to create choppy yet soft edges that bring out the client’s features, and the blade helps us achieve that.

It takes years to master the blade, and at Sebastian, we’ll teach you how to push the boundaries of hair cutting by introducing blading techniques for what’s in front of you and how the texture – and which texture – works with the blade.

Before starting any cut, we recommend applying our new No Breaker leave-in bonding spray, a treatment that can protect the hair against breakage. This hybrid product provides volume whilst repairing hair damaged by styling and chemical process.

Horizontal and vertical skimming

This technique consists of reducing mass and length at the same time with a fluid motion from the midshaft, using long and smooth strokes with the blade, all the way to the ends.

Horizontal Skimming | Hair Cutting Technique | Sebastian Professional

Vertical Skimming | Hair Cutting Technique | Sebastian Professional

Curve cutting

Gently hold the blade between the thumb and the two first fingers and cut using a curving motion, starting at the midshaft through to the ends. This will create spaces in the hair, allowing movement.

Curve Hair Cutting Technique Tutorial | Sebastian Professional

Horizontal and vertical pen cutting

Hold the hair vertically or horizontally between your fingers. Work with the edge of the blade in an upward motion from the head toward the ends, filtering and removing mass.

Pen Hair Cutting Technique Tutorial | Sebastian Professional

Splicing

Taking the hair in a vertical position, press the thumb between the hair and the blade, removing length and weight to create a choppy texture.

Splicing Hair Cutting Technique Tutorial | Sebastian Professional

Pinch and cut

Using your thumb and your index finger, pinch the hair together and use the blade when detailing your haircut. It gives you a lot of possibilities, from a very soft to a very strong result.

Pinch & Cut Hair Cutting Technique Tutorial | Sebastian Professional

Blade over comb

This technique consists of running the blade over the comb in a rapid and fluid movement in order to create a seamless and filtered effect.

Blade Over Comb Hair Cutting Technique Tutorial | Sebastian Professional

Wrap cutting

This technique consists of running the blade over the comb in a rapid and fluid movement in order to create a seamless and filtered effect.

Wrap Hair Cutting Technique Tutorial | Sebastian Professional

Scissor techniques

To take your skills further, here are a few scissor techniques that can be used in combination with blading techniques:

Scissor techniques

TWIST AND CUT

Take sections of hair and twist them in the opposite direction to one another. Using the scissors with a mix of slight pressures and gaps, remove mass and length, forcing movement and texture into the hair.

BACK CUTTING

This technique consists of introducing soft and loose layers by using the shears to reduce mass and length at the same time.

POINT CUTTING

Using the tips of the shears, keeping fingers away from the desired length, cut directly into the hair, creating an erratic line within the shape or creating a serrated edge.
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